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West Bellows Creek Trail
| Beginning Elevation: |
8,800 Feet
(2743.1 Meters)
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| Difficulty: |
More Difficult
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| Elevation Gain: |
2,400 Feet
(748.1 Meters)
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| Ending Elevation: |
11,200 Feet
(3491.3 Meters)
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| Length, One-way: |
4.1 Miles
(6.83 Kilometers)
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| Trail Number: |
871
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| Usage: |
Light
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| USGS Maps: |
Wagon Wheel Gap, Halfmoon Pass
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Access across La Garita Ranch property is often denied. Opportunities for good fishing exist along West Bellows Creek, but camping areas are rare in this drainage. Views of spectacular cliffs and rugged country can be seen while hiking up the narrow canyon. The trail crosses West Bellows Creek many times. Hikers can count on getting their feet wet. Creek crossings are not safe during the time of spring snow melt. Check on conditions at the Divide Ranger District Office or La Garita Ranch. The trail makes a moderately steep climb paralleling West Bellows Creek for its entire length. Many creek crossings exist. The canyon bottom is narrow, with rugged cliffs towering above the trail in the upper portions of the drainage. The trail winds along and through several rocky sections. The trail then joins Forest Service Trail # 790 to the Wheeler Geologic Area about 0.25-0.5 mile below the base of the unique formations. Although several excellent possibilities exist for cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in the Wheeler/Wason area, few people take advantage of the opportunities. The foot and horse trails in this area offer only limited skiing opportunities for those who may desire to take a look at this winter wonderland and only the foolhardy would ski in the narrow canyon of West Bellows.
Directions from Creede, Colorado: Hikers should call La Garita Ranch to secure permission to drive across their private land to the trailhead. Travel south on Colorado Highway 149 for 7.3 miles, to private road entering La Garita Ranch. Follow this road across private property to the trailhead.
Seasonal Information:
Normally Open:
June through September .
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Add your own trip Report!
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Filed By: Brian G. Angevine
(Lenexa, KS)
Number of People Encountered: 0-10 ppl
Recommend to a Friend: Highly
Report: Fishing the Highway of Legends
Brian G. Angevine
I am not much of an optimist. There are
days I decide to go fishing when I am pretty
sure I will not catch anything. The weather
might be all wrong, or the rivers muddy, but I
don’t really expect to catch anything. But,
still, I go. Why? Mainly because I like to be
outside in an environment I enjoy. That
environment includes a certain amount of
solitude, flowing water (hopefully clear and
cold), pine trees, mountains, and trout.
When I first bought my cabin near
Weston, Colorado, I had that kind of thing in
mind. I had been looking for someplace near
a trout stream and a ski area for a long time,
but the prices were way out of my reach. I
finally settled on a place I could afford that
was nowhere near a trout stream that I knew
of and certainly no nearby ski area. Imagine
my surprise when I discovered the Bosque del
Oso (Forest of the Bear) and the south branch
of the Purgatoire River.
The first time I drove the 25 miles to the
wild area I was not impressed. The stream
was tiny, shallow, and altogether unpromising
looking. A branch wedged between rocks was
literally bristling with caddis cases, though,
which showed an ample food supply for trout.
The area is catch and release only, and flies
and lures only. That eliminates a whole bunch
of “meat” fisher people. I found myself
completely alone on the stream. Of course
there is the annoying roar of trucks up and
down the dirt road racing to drill ever more
gas wells hoping to reap a profit, yet
destroying the wilderness in the process. But I
have learned to almost ignore them.
That day yielded no fish. I was not sure
how or where to fish the stream, nor what to
use other than the caddis indicated by the
multitude of cased larvae. I wasn’t even sure
there were any fish there. I never saw one and
was discouraged by the shallow water. But I
guess I’d have to say I’m an optimist where
trout fishing is concerned.
The next time I went back I caught
several small browns. As I got the hang of
how to fish the stream I began to catch lots of
fish, all of them small, all of them browns. A
friend I was trying to teach how to fly fish
counted me catching and releasing 35 fish in
an hour one day. Finally as my expertise grew
I landed a few 12 to thirteen inchers and even
a good sized rainbow once. How a rainbow
survived in that warm, shallow water I don’t
know.
Then two years ago a devastating forest
fire struck the area. I was fishing during the
fire drawing concerned looks from the
firefighters driving by on the road above. I
finally quit when a bulldozer began cutting a
fire line up the ridge behind me. That is
where they stopped the fire later that day.
Ash and other detritus from the fire probably
killed most of the life in the stream. When I
visited a few months after the fire, there were
no caddis cases, no insect life, and I saw no
trout.
Now, almost two years later, I decided to
try it again. The insects and fish are back but
in fewer numbers. But the fish I have caught
are larger than any I ever caught before. But
they are also harder to catch. Although I hate
to give up my “secret” spot, I will share some
of my techniques for fishing the south fork of
the Purgatoire in the Bosque del Oso.
The stream is very narrow in most spots
and there is a lot of brush along most of the
banks. As a result I usually wade the center of
the stream and fish upstream. During normal
water I can usually wear just shin high
irrigation boots, or wading sandals and go
bare legged. In higher water nothing more
than hip waders are needed. The only
problem with wading upstream is that
spooked fish usually go upstream spooking
other fish.
Emerging Caddis patterns work very well,
also dry Elk Hair Caddis. Royal Coachman has
landed quite a few fish along with Adams of
various types. Blue Winged Olive will work as
will Pale Morning Dun. Sizes run from 18 to
twelve. Hopper imitations do well during the
heat of the day. As usual with most streams
the largest fish I have caught have been on
nymphs. Gold Ribbed Hares Ear is always
good and surprisingly, for a spring creek,
Golden Stonefly nymphs. The only rainbow I
caught fell for the Golden Stonefly. I haven’t
had much luck with other nymphs but some
fisher people might.
Midges have always been a source of
frustration for me. I see trout taking them
and try to fish them but never seem to do well,
especially the nymphs. Just my poor fishing
techniques I am sure.
One other unusual part of the fishing is
that I have never caught anything before about
9:30 a.m. I have gotten up before dawn and
arrived on the river very early only to fish until
10 or so before catching anything. I haven’t
fished late since I am a little afraid of the
bears and cougars that inhabit that area, plus I
don’t relish the drive back home that late at
night. So far in June 2004 I have not caught
anything before 11:45 a.m. The hatches have
not been starting until noon and then a
lightning storm usually drives me off the river
by 1:00. But the water is high so far this year
and the prospects for the future of the fishery
look good if the moisture stays more steady
for a few years.
To get there take Highway 12 (The
Highway of Legends) west from Trinidad or
south from LaVeta. One of the entrances to
Bosque del Oso is a quarter of a mile east of
Weston. The dirt road goes south with big
green signs marking the area. The first 4
miles or so is private property, but a big sign
marks the beginning of the public area. There
are about 4 miles of stream that can be
reached from the road with several parking
spots along the way. Another 4 miles or so
must be walked but a road still parallels the
stream all the way. Fisher folk will find many
tumbling riffles and lots of corner holes where
the stream runs into rock banks. Some mud
banks cause some silting, but for the most
part the stream is clear. The peace of the river
and the wild area will be soothing to most
souls.
I use a four weight, full flex, 7 and a half
foot rod with a double taper line. It is perfect
for such a small stream. It has enough
backbone to cast against the wind--which
blows often--but is easy to handle in the tight
spaces. I miss a lot of strikes on nymphs with
that rod and probably could do better with a
stiffer rod for nymphing. But I love my four
weight.
If you get bored with that stream, the
main branch of the Purgatoire follows highway
12. A few miles upstream from Weston is
another entrance to Bosque del Oso with
about a two mile stretch of stream to fish
there. It is also catch and release, the setting
is not as pristine, but the fish are bigger.
Then there is North Lake on up the mountain
on highway 12. It is beautiful, heavily fished,
and has a lot of nice trout. You can keep
some there, but no bait is allowed. Monument
Lake is a fee area that is also heavily fished.
In all I am quite pleased with southern
Colorado fishing east of the Rockies. It is far
better than I expected and very much
uncrowded. Enjoy!
--1334 words
Brian G. Angevine
9290 Oakcrest
Lenexa KS 66227-4005
913-441-0605
brianangevine@mac.com
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